05 Hamsey Green to Coulsdon South Station

1st September 2010

I set off on yet another fine, sunny September 1st to distant South London to complete the most strenuous section of the Loop so far, as it reaches its most southerly point in the North Downs. This very attractive stretch takes in four Commons and down and up three valleys across parts of Surrey and Croydon. I was also looking forward to the journey, using the recently opened London Overground line, which avoided using a London terminus and so hopefully reducing the journey time.

A forlorn hope as it turned out. It all started out ok, District line to Whitechapel and straight onto one of the new, gleaming, air-conditioned trains in the direction of West Croydon. On the way you pass through the old Thames Tunnel designed by Marc Brunel and opened in 1843. But the journey to West Croydon took rather longer than advertised. I then spent an unhappy fifteen minutes searching for the bus station in Croydon, due to very poor signage, (it was right next to the train station), thus missing the connecting bus. The 205 took a scenic route through Croydon before depositing me in Hamsey Green at midday.

Just five minutes after leaving the bus, I arrived at Riddlesdown Common and was transported back the countryside. The Common is a large, open area with wildflower meadows and grazing sheep. The Loop runs across the common before turning steeply downhill past a disused quarry to follow an old Roman road to the bottom of the valley and then straight back up again to Kenley Common.

The climb to Kenley Common has the steepest gradient of any part of the Loop encountered so far. I paused on a bench to enjoy the view of Riddlesdown and the quarry before setting off up some steps. These steps were so steep I needed steps to get up the steps if you see what I mean.I emerged somewhat breathless at the top only to find more uphill walking into mature, shady woodland.

Next to the Common is Kenley Airfield, a former RAF fighter airfield dating back to WW1. It contains many buildings dating back to WW2 including the blast pens that protected the spitfires. It is still in use for gliders and I spotted on coming into land. I paused to reflect that seventy years ago it would not be as peaceful as it was today.

I stopped for lunch at the Wattenden Arms which was full of RAF memorabilia and then onto Coulsdon Common, past the miniature observatory owned Croydon Astronomical Society. All four Commons were purchased in the nineteenth century by the Corporation of London, who had the considerable foresight to preserve these areas for future generations. I, for one, am very grateful for this civic largesse. Probably the best time to visit this area is late spring as the meadows will be full of wildflowers and the woods carpeted with bluebells.

The last part of the walk through Happy Valley, Devilsden Wood and along Farthing Downs was definitely the best, three miles of road-free walking. Happy Valley Park was particularly beautiful, with great views of the North Downs and none whatsoever of Croydon. It was full of families, dog walker and joggers. I wasn’t so happy when I found I had walk down it and up the other side. Happy Valley marks the most southerly point of the London Loop.

Devilsden Wood is an ancient mixed woodland, full of bluebells in spring time. The path ran gently uphill and the shade was welcome. The Loop finally emerges through the trees onto Farthing Down, a long ridge with fine views back towards the City, Canary Wharf and Crystal Palace, about eight miles to north, but still in Croydon. After a brief stop to admire the view, it was just a gentle downhill stroll to the end of the walk at Coulsdon station.

The walk between Hamsey Green and Coulsdon is one of the finest parts of the Loop, with the minimum of road walking, a real country feel and saves its best views for last. Highly recommended!


Time for leg 3hr 50m Distance 7.25 miles Time for trip 8hr 05m
Walk log
Fares this leg £7.80

Section 05 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 6 miles 4 hr

Walking conditions: Mostly level; a few slopes and a long flight of steps just before Kenley Common; stiles and gates; some sections are suitable for the less mobile and for pushchairs: From Tithepit Shaw Lane to Riddlesdown. Around the Fox pub. Farthing Downs, near the car park and toilets.