05 Hamsey Green to Coulsdon South Station

1st September 2010

I set off on yet another fine, sunny September 1st to distant South London to complete the most strenuous section of the Loop so far, as it reaches its most southerly point in the North Downs. This very attractive stretch takes in four Commons and down and up three valleys across parts of Surrey and Croydon. I was also looking forward to the journey, using the recently opened London Overground line, which avoided using a London terminus and so hopefully reducing the journey time.

A forlorn hope as it turned out. It all started out ok, District line to Whitechapel and straight onto one of the new, gleaming, air-conditioned trains in the direction of West Croydon. On the way you pass through the old Thames Tunnel designed by Marc Brunel and opened in 1843. But the journey to West Croydon took rather longer than advertised. I then spent an unhappy fifteen minutes searching for the bus station in Croydon, due to very poor signage, (it was right next to the train station), thus missing the connecting bus. The 205 took a scenic route through Croydon before depositing me in Hamsey Green at midday.

Just five minutes after leaving the bus, I arrived at Riddlesdown Common and was transported back the countryside. The Common is a large, open area with wildflower meadows and grazing sheep. The Loop runs across the common before turning steeply downhill past a disused quarry to follow an old Roman road to the bottom of the valley and then straight back up again to Kenley Common.

The climb to Kenley Common has the steepest gradient of any part of the Loop encountered so far. I paused on a bench to enjoy the view of Riddlesdown and the quarry before setting off up some steps. These steps were so steep I needed steps to get up the steps if you see what I mean.I emerged somewhat breathless at the top only to find more uphill walking into mature, shady woodland.

Next to the Common is Kenley Airfield, a former RAF fighter airfield dating back to WW1. It contains many buildings dating back to WW2 including the blast pens that protected the spitfires. It is still in use for gliders and I spotted on coming into land. I paused to reflect that seventy years ago it would not be as peaceful as it was today.

I stopped for lunch at the Wattenden Arms which was full of RAF memorabilia and then onto Coulsdon Common, past the miniature observatory owned Croydon Astronomical Society. All four Commons were purchased in the nineteenth century by the Corporation of London, who had the considerable foresight to preserve these areas for future generations. I, for one, am very grateful for this civic largesse. Probably the best time to visit this area is late spring as the meadows will be full of wildflowers and the woods carpeted with bluebells.

The last part of the walk through Happy Valley, Devilsden Wood and along Farthing Downs was definitely the best, three miles of road-free walking. Happy Valley Park was particularly beautiful, with great views of the North Downs and none whatsoever of Croydon. It was full of families, dog walker and joggers. I wasn’t so happy when I found I had walk down it and up the other side. Happy Valley marks the most southerly point of the London Loop.

Devilsden Wood is an ancient mixed woodland, full of bluebells in spring time. The path ran gently uphill and the shade was welcome. The Loop finally emerges through the trees onto Farthing Down, a long ridge with fine views back towards the City, Canary Wharf and Crystal Palace, about eight miles to north, but still in Croydon. After a brief stop to admire the view, it was just a gentle downhill stroll to the end of the walk at Coulsdon station.

The walk between Hamsey Green and Coulsdon is one of the finest parts of the Loop, with the minimum of road walking, a real country feel and saves its best views for last. Highly recommended!


Time for leg 3hr 50m Distance 7.25 miles Time for trip 8hr 05m
Walk log
Fares this leg £7.80

Section 05 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 6 miles 4 hr

Walking conditions: Mostly level; a few slopes and a long flight of steps just before Kenley Common; stiles and gates; some sections are suitable for the less mobile and for pushchairs: From Tithepit Shaw Lane to Riddlesdown. Around the Fox pub. Farthing Downs, near the car park and toilets.

04 West Wickham Common to Hamsey Green

1st March 2010

In common with 2007 and 2008, March 1st was sunny, bright and quite warm where sheltered. This leg of the Loop took me south west from Bromley, through Croydon to the very borders of Surrey. My journey around London nearly came to end permanently on the Croydon Road in Hayes when I tripped up a kerb and fell into the road. I quickly got up and sat on a nearby wall, but I probably scared the driver of the oncoming car about 200 metres away, who was kind enough to slow down and check I was ok. Some sixth (common) sense told me not to walk along this bit of road when the cars were close or I'd been a goner. I ended up with a bruised bum and knee and a nasty fright.

This section of the route is very well-wooded which was a bit of a shame, as I would have prefered an open landscape to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It was very muddy underfoot and very hilly which made walking quite difficult at times, you end up with a gait like those cross-country skiers trying to stop your feet from slipping. Woods also don't make for good photos as everywhere looks the same. With the exception of one longish stretch of road, it was footpaths all the way. The Loop crossed the Greenwich Meridian in Coney Hall so passes into the western hemisphere until the very last leg in eight years time.

The first four miles were undulating, woodland paths through West Wickham Common, Spring Park, where Bromley ends and Croydon begins, Threehalfpenny Wood and Kennel Wood to the village of Upper Shirley, where I had a brief glimpse of the windmill. The Loop then goes very steeply uphill into the Addington Hills, the largest area of heathland left in London. At the top of the escarpment is the most fantastic view of London, which surely has to be the highlight of the walk so far. I knew it was going to be good as the OS marked it with a viewpoint symbol, and it would have taken my breath away, if I had any left from the climb up.

I could see the Millennium Dome and Canary Wharf over 10 miles and the little Essex hills where I started this walk four years ago. Central London was blocked out by the ridge of hills in south London, but the Gherkin,, Tower 42 and the GPO were visible. Out west I could see Wembley, Harrow-on-the Hill and the grey lumps of the Chilterns. Windsor Castle probably was visible with the aid of binoculars as it was a very clear day. I could make out most of the Capital Ring route I walked last autumn. It was a pretty amazing site and well worth a visit. The photo doesn't really do it justice.


After a little rest enjoying the view, I continued on over the Tramlink track to Heathfield Gardens, which probably look lovely in summer, up yet another bloody hill to Bramley Bank Nature Reserve, owned by the London Wildlife Trust. After a brief excursion off route down a muddy bank on my bum, I stopped for lunch on a sunny bench in a nice grassy ride, before yomping up yet another woody hill. The next half a mile was via a series of twittens through a housing estate to the gateway into Selsdon Wood, owned by the National Trust.

The final two miles of this leg run along the borders of Surrey and were very rural, crossing just one road. It went up and down yet another hill and was extremely boggy in parts. The combination of hills and mud were very tiring and I was graeteful to see the bus stop when I arrived at Hamsey Green. As if to make up for all my hard work, the walking gods granted me a very speedy journey home, making all my connections with very little waiting, to enjoy my birthday tea.



Time for leg 5hr 16m Distance 10 miles Time for trip 9hr 12m
Walk log
Fares this leg £15.30

Section 04 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 9 miles 5hr 15m

Walking conditions: Mostly level; a few longish, steep slopes, stiles and kissing gates; some small flights of steps. Some sections are suitable for the less mobile and pushchairs: from Hayes Station to Point 3; Point 7 to Point 8.

03 Jubilee Country Park to West Wickham Common

1st September 2009

Section four of the Loop is a meandering trail across the borough of Bromley, linking country parks, old woods and commons, country estates, genuine countryside and some pretty villages. The farm shown here is right in the heart of the borough. Bromley is London's biggest, greenest borough, roughly the same size as Andorra and probably just as wealthy. It stretches from Crystal Palace south to Westerham Heights, at 245m/804ft the highest part of Greater London. There were quite a few climbs on this leg. The day started and ended in pleasant, warm sunshine with the odd inconvenient shower around lunchtime.

However before I could start section 4 I had to finish off the bit of section 3 I avoided in my rush to catch the train. This added about a mile to the route, including a missed turn when I failed to spot a railway bridge. The Loop crosses three railway bridges and follows a series of gloomy alleyways (that I would not fancy at night) to official start at Jubilee Country Park, an area of wildflower meadows and ancient woodlands, extremely popular with dog walkers and cyclists.

On the way to Farnborough Village, the Loop passes through two ancient woods, Crofton Wood and Darrick Wood. Crofton Wood was quite dense and the guide posts are absolutely necessary to navigate your way through. The Loop goes through the churchyard of St Giles the Abbot, a pretty church with a small tower built from flint and red brick. Apparently, the “legendary” Gypsy Lee is buried in the churchyard. I mistook this for Gypsy Rose Lee and searched in vain for grave where everything was ‘coming up roses’. There were lots of horrible Victorian fallen angels.

A short amble down the hill from the church is High Elms County Park, the former home of Sir John Lubbock. Only the stables remain from the main house, but the gardens are extensive, including some very big redwoods (I don’t where the elms were). This was my lunch stop and I found the picnic area absolutely heaving with every nursery schoolchild in Orpington, the noise level was off the scale. I just unpacked the picnic when the heavens unloaded on me. Sometimes you just can’t win.

From High Elms, the loop passes through pleasant open countryside along the wonderful Bogey Lane with the odd light aircraft buzzing overhead on its way to Biggin Hill. One of the features of this walk were the weird road names; Bogey Lane, Tent Peg Lane, and Pole Cat Alley.

Holwood House, the former home of Sir William Pitt the younger, is visible on the top of a hill. It is now owned by property developers and was securely locked away from prying eyes. Holwood House is famous for the meeting between Pitt and William Wilberforce, when Wilberforce decided to oppose slavery in Parliament. The meeting took place under an oak tree, a victim of the 1987 hurricane. There is a memorial seat, also securely locked away. There is a great view over the Vale of Keston from the ordinary seat.

This leg was significant for me as it was the first time I met other Loopers. I stopped for a chat with them at the Wilberforce Oak, Several members of the group had made more than one circuit.

The only water feature on this leg is Caesar’s well, the source of the river Ravensbourne which flows into the Thames in Wandsworth. It feeds Keston Ponds, located either side of Fishponds Roads. I stopped for an ice cream, another first for the Loop. The final part of the day took me through Keston, once the home of Margaret Thatcher and finished at West Wickham Common. This common is one of the many areas purchased by the Corporation of London in the nineteenth century, to preserve the countryside for people like me.


Time for leg 5hr 10m Distance 10 miles Time for Trip 8hrs 50m
Walk Log
Fares this leg £11.20

Section 03 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 9 miles 5 hours

Walking conditions: Mostly level with a few longish, steep slopes. Stiles and gates and some small flights of steps. Some sections are suitable for the less mobile and pushchairs: From Petts Wood station to High Elms Country Park; from Keston Ponds to Hayes Station.