04 West Wickham Common to Hamsey Green

1st March 2010

In common with 2007 and 2008, March 1st was sunny, bright and quite warm where sheltered. This leg of the Loop took me south west from Bromley, through Croydon to the very borders of Surrey. My journey around London nearly came to end permanently on the Croydon Road in Hayes when I tripped up a kerb and fell into the road. I quickly got up and sat on a nearby wall, but I probably scared the driver of the oncoming car about 200 metres away, who was kind enough to slow down and check I was ok. Some sixth (common) sense told me not to walk along this bit of road when the cars were close or I'd been a goner. I ended up with a bruised bum and knee and a nasty fright.

This section of the route is very well-wooded which was a bit of a shame, as I would have prefered an open landscape to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It was very muddy underfoot and very hilly which made walking quite difficult at times, you end up with a gait like those cross-country skiers trying to stop your feet from slipping. Woods also don't make for good photos as everywhere looks the same. With the exception of one longish stretch of road, it was footpaths all the way. The Loop crossed the Greenwich Meridian in Coney Hall so passes into the western hemisphere until the very last leg in eight years time.

The first four miles were undulating, woodland paths through West Wickham Common, Spring Park, where Bromley ends and Croydon begins, Threehalfpenny Wood and Kennel Wood to the village of Upper Shirley, where I had a brief glimpse of the windmill. The Loop then goes very steeply uphill into the Addington Hills, the largest area of heathland left in London. At the top of the escarpment is the most fantastic view of London, which surely has to be the highlight of the walk so far. I knew it was going to be good as the OS marked it with a viewpoint symbol, and it would have taken my breath away, if I had any left from the climb up.

I could see the Millennium Dome and Canary Wharf over 10 miles and the little Essex hills where I started this walk four years ago. Central London was blocked out by the ridge of hills in south London, but the Gherkin,, Tower 42 and the GPO were visible. Out west I could see Wembley, Harrow-on-the Hill and the grey lumps of the Chilterns. Windsor Castle probably was visible with the aid of binoculars as it was a very clear day. I could make out most of the Capital Ring route I walked last autumn. It was a pretty amazing site and well worth a visit. The photo doesn't really do it justice.


After a little rest enjoying the view, I continued on over the Tramlink track to Heathfield Gardens, which probably look lovely in summer, up yet another bloody hill to Bramley Bank Nature Reserve, owned by the London Wildlife Trust. After a brief excursion off route down a muddy bank on my bum, I stopped for lunch on a sunny bench in a nice grassy ride, before yomping up yet another woody hill. The next half a mile was via a series of twittens through a housing estate to the gateway into Selsdon Wood, owned by the National Trust.

The final two miles of this leg run along the borders of Surrey and were very rural, crossing just one road. It went up and down yet another hill and was extremely boggy in parts. The combination of hills and mud were very tiring and I was graeteful to see the bus stop when I arrived at Hamsey Green. As if to make up for all my hard work, the walking gods granted me a very speedy journey home, making all my connections with very little waiting, to enjoy my birthday tea.



Time for leg 5hr 16m Distance 10 miles Time for trip 9hr 12m
Walk log
Fares this leg £15.30

Section 04 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 9 miles 5hr 15m

Walking conditions: Mostly level; a few longish, steep slopes, stiles and kissing gates; some small flights of steps. Some sections are suitable for the less mobile and pushchairs: from Hayes Station to Point 3; Point 7 to Point 8.

03 Jubilee Country Park to West Wickham Common

1st September 2009

Section four of the Loop is a meandering trail across the borough of Bromley, linking country parks, old woods and commons, country estates, genuine countryside and some pretty villages. The farm shown here is right in the heart of the borough. Bromley is London's biggest, greenest borough, roughly the same size as Andorra and probably just as wealthy. It stretches from Crystal Palace south to Westerham Heights, at 245m/804ft the highest part of Greater London. There were quite a few climbs on this leg. The day started and ended in pleasant, warm sunshine with the odd inconvenient shower around lunchtime.

However before I could start section 4 I had to finish off the bit of section 3 I avoided in my rush to catch the train. This added about a mile to the route, including a missed turn when I failed to spot a railway bridge. The Loop crosses three railway bridges and follows a series of gloomy alleyways (that I would not fancy at night) to official start at Jubilee Country Park, an area of wildflower meadows and ancient woodlands, extremely popular with dog walkers and cyclists.

On the way to Farnborough Village, the Loop passes through two ancient woods, Crofton Wood and Darrick Wood. Crofton Wood was quite dense and the guide posts are absolutely necessary to navigate your way through. The Loop goes through the churchyard of St Giles the Abbot, a pretty church with a small tower built from flint and red brick. Apparently, the “legendary” Gypsy Lee is buried in the churchyard. I mistook this for Gypsy Rose Lee and searched in vain for grave where everything was ‘coming up roses’. There were lots of horrible Victorian fallen angels.

A short amble down the hill from the church is High Elms County Park, the former home of Sir John Lubbock. Only the stables remain from the main house, but the gardens are extensive, including some very big redwoods (I don’t where the elms were). This was my lunch stop and I found the picnic area absolutely heaving with every nursery schoolchild in Orpington, the noise level was off the scale. I just unpacked the picnic when the heavens unloaded on me. Sometimes you just can’t win.

From High Elms, the loop passes through pleasant open countryside along the wonderful Bogey Lane with the odd light aircraft buzzing overhead on its way to Biggin Hill. One of the features of this walk were the weird road names; Bogey Lane, Tent Peg Lane, and Pole Cat Alley.

Holwood House, the former home of Sir William Pitt the younger, is visible on the top of a hill. It is now owned by property developers and was securely locked away from prying eyes. Holwood House is famous for the meeting between Pitt and William Wilberforce, when Wilberforce decided to oppose slavery in Parliament. The meeting took place under an oak tree, a victim of the 1987 hurricane. There is a memorial seat, also securely locked away. There is a great view over the Vale of Keston from the ordinary seat.

This leg was significant for me as it was the first time I met other Loopers. I stopped for a chat with them at the Wilberforce Oak, Several members of the group had made more than one circuit.

The only water feature on this leg is Caesar’s well, the source of the river Ravensbourne which flows into the Thames in Wandsworth. It feeds Keston Ponds, located either side of Fishponds Roads. I stopped for an ice cream, another first for the Loop. The final part of the day took me through Keston, once the home of Margaret Thatcher and finished at West Wickham Common. This common is one of the many areas purchased by the Corporation of London in the nineteenth century, to preserve the countryside for people like me.


Time for leg 5hr 10m Distance 10 miles Time for Trip 8hrs 50m
Walk Log
Fares this leg £11.20

Section 03 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 9 miles 5 hours

Walking conditions: Mostly level with a few longish, steep slopes. Stiles and gates and some small flights of steps. Some sections are suitable for the less mobile and pushchairs: From Petts Wood station to High Elms Country Park; from Keston Ponds to Hayes Station.

02 Old Bexley Village to Jubilee Country Park

1st March 2009

I left at dawn for the latest of leg of the London Loop from Bexley to Petts Wood, a distance of just over seven miles. Although the start point was just over seven miles away by crow, it was twenty five miles by public transport and took over two hours, due to missing the train replacement bus by being at the wrong stop. It was a grey, misty morning in London, cool but with little wind.

The first stretch of the walk from Bexley station was through reclaimed land toward the Cray Riverway. It was well away from traffic so you could appreciate the birdsong. This area is known to be inhabited by parakeets, exotic birds from the Himalayas who have settled all over South London. Eventually I spotted one in the trees, it was green and looked like an overgrown budgie.

The Loop followed the river bank south towards Foots Cray Meadows, the largest open space in Bexley. It was very popular with dogs and their owners, in fact I don’t recall a Loop section being as popular as this one. Five Arch Bridge is a survivor from the original estate of Foots Cray Place, the house was destroyed by fire years ago. The path finally meets the road again after two miles by All Saints Church in Foots Cray.

There was a short section of road walking followed by a series of footpaths past playing fields, horses and allotments to emerge in the grounds of Sidcup Place, a large eighteenth century house which has had many roles through the ages and is now a pub. There were three enormous redwoods reminding me of the Wellingtonias in Havering. Sidcup Place would have made an excellent borough top with a view south to Shooters Hill, the second highest hill in the old county of London. It was too early in the year for blooms in the formal garden but the crocuses made a fine display.

Another short road stretch under the A20 led to Scadbury Nature Reserve in the borough of Bromley. This is the remains of ancient parkland with old oaks and coppices. In the heart of the park are the ruins of a moated manor house. Once away from the sound of the A20 it had a very rural feel. The Loop runs for about a mile then crosses a road into Petts Wood owned by the National Trust. Both Scadbury Park and Petts Wood were very popular with walkers and cyclists. There were even sheep grazing in fields of the Hawkswood estate.

I knew that the next train from Petts Wood left at 12.04 and if I took a short cut I might just make it. I broke a habit of a life time and asked for directions from a local, which was useful as I was walking in the wrong direction. I caught the train with seconds to spare and was home in time for lunch. This section of the Loop was very enjoyable with a variety of scenery and only two short road sections.

Time for leg 3hr 05m Distance 7¼ miles Time for Trip 7hrs 05m
Walk log
Fares this leg £7.50

Section 02 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and time 7¼ miles 5 hours

Walking conditions: Mostly level with a few gentle climbs. This section is suitable for the less mobile and is accessible for pushchairs in parts of Scadbury Park and Foots Cray Meadow.

01 Erith to Old Bexley

1st September 2008

I have no idea how fast a crow flies but I’m sure it wouldn’t have taken an hour and forty minutes to cover the six miles from my house to Erith. But then again it wouldn’t have had to take three trains to get there either. Today I crossed the Thames to the official start point of the London Loop at Erith Riverside using the District Line, DLR and Southeastern trains. In fact I was well-served by all three arriving to start the walk just after 11am.

This leg of the Loop followed the course of three rivers, the mighty Thames and the not-so-mighty Darent and Cray using the Thames Path and the Cray Riverway. Erith Riverside is quite pleasant with gardens and a pier but sadly a large part of the first mile was along a busy road lined with industrial estates, equally as unattractive as Ferry Lane in Rainham and a lot more dangerous. The Thames was at low tide so I didn’t walk out onto the Deep Water Jetty but I did take time to seek out Coldharbour Point Light on the north bank where I had been six months ago. I also noticed this mural painted on the side of a pub.

Once rejoining the Thames near Erith Yacht Club on the last mile of the Thames Path, the walk improved greatly. It was a fine day (following the pattern of previous September walks), the sunny intervals were warm and there was a pleasant cooling breeze. Big skies, wide views, birdlife and the occasional passing boat were the order of day, dominated by the Queen Elizabeth II bridge to the east. Although the landscape was mainly industrial, it was very peaceful.

At the river Darent Flood Barrier, the Loop turns south leaving the Thames behind. We won’t meet up again for another 50 miles. It was goodbye too, to the Wellingtonias (of Section 21) still clearly visible on the horizon 12 miles away. The views from the banks of the Darent were also mainly industrial but you got the odd glimpse of nearby Lesnes Abbey Wood and the distant North Downs. After a couple of miles of silence and solitude I came across the inevitable industrial estate, lorries & landfill site. The Cray River Way then followed a series of paths that ran along the backs of houses until it arrived, not unexpectedly in Crayford.

I lingered in Crayford only for long enough to find the local Sainsburys and was on my way. I can’t remember anything of note about it. After a little bit of roadside walking the Loop met up with the Cray at some playing fields where I took a well-earned rest and ate my lunch. I had intended to visit Hall Place, medieval house with topiary garden, and highlight of Section 1. However, it was closed for refurbishment so I trundled on.

The last part of the route took me over a railway, under the A2, through a wood and finally the overgrown churchyard of St Mary the Virgin, Bexley. The church had a pleasant exterior with a broach spire, which are quite common in Essex. Bexley felt like a village that badly needed a by-pass, lots of quite pleasant old buildings but no where very safe to admire them.

Unfortunately for me, I arrived at Bexley Station at the same time as the train, but after eight miles (or possibly seven) I was in no position to run for it. The walk from Erith had taken me four and quarter hours, including rest stops and which wasn’t bad for eight miles. I thought my first excursion to the dark/south side went very well, with no major transport difficulties and the leaflet instructions were once again excellent.

Time for leg 3hr 45m Distance 8 miles Time for Trip 7hrs 50m
Walk log

Fares this leg £7.00

Section 01 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and Time 8½ miles 5 hours

Walking Conditions: Mostly level with a few short climbs; paths alongside the River Darent and Cray be muddy; the section is suitable for the less mobile and for pushchairs around Riverside Gardens and Erith Pier.

24 Rainham to Purfleet

1st March 2008

There appears to be a pattern forming for the March walks as the weather was once again sunny and bright but with a very strong, very cold wind. If ever a there was a bit of the London Loop in need of a route improvement, this is it. I’ll be very surprised if there is a less attractive part than the first mile from Rainham station. Despite a slight delay waiting for the level crossing to rise, I was on my way half an hour after leaving home. Once over the Tilbury line, the Loop crosses the new high Eurostar line by means of a long complicated ramp. I didn’t have to wait too long before one of the new sleek trains came by, not at full speed I think, but very impressive and very quiet.

The Loop then proceeds through the industrial wastelands of Rainham, under the A13 and past abandoned factories, car breaker yards and other dubious enterprises. To the east, there were views over Rainham marsh to the Queen Elizabeth Bridge. Rainham marsh is one of those places that is always being threatened by developers. Do the words Flood Plain mean nothing! All right if you want an upstairs swimming pool.

Past the factories, there is a most unexpected footpath which stops at a wall, you look over it and you have a wonderful view of the Thames looking upstream. This was an old favourite walk of the Cobb family in the 60s, when we would come to the riverside for fresh air and exercise. I think both the air and the river are a lot cleaner now.

A temporary closure of the footpath by the Tilda Rice factory meant a mile and half detour to rejoin the river bank by the abandoned barges. Relics of WW2, they saw duty as flood defences during the Great Flood of 1953. They are now home to seabirds and gently mouldering away. Havering Council has developed the area around the barges into a picnic area and viewing point, but sadly I’m unable to take the Aged Parents there due to another height barrier. The path along to Coldharbour Point used to be grassy but has turned into a tarmac path. Coldharbour Point used to be the end of this section and is the nearest point to Section 1 on the south bank of the Thames. I continued along because I wanted to see where I would be in 6 months time. You get some fine views across the river and I was able to trace the route of the Green Chain Walk that Noddy and I discovered a few years ago. It is an excellent series of walks linking woodlands and parks in South East London.

I expected to have to return to the barges and continue along a newly opened cycle path to the new finish in Purfleet. However, I was pleasantly surprised to see the route continue after the lighthouse. While I was wondering whether to continue or not I started to hear voices. This was a bit disconcerting as I had seen a soul in hours, when I realised the voices were coming from my jacket! My GPS had decided to give up the ghost just when I need it and was giving a low battery warning.

It took about 50 minutes to walk to the RSPB Visitor Centre at Purfleet along the bank of the Thames, studiously ignoring the landfill site to the right. There were great views of the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge and Crayford Marshes over the water. At the point where the footpath met the cycle path, there was a glimpse of the White House and the Wellingtonias, now 10 miles away. The path then runs adjacent to Aveley Marsh, now a nature reserve, but formally an Army rifle range where my Dad learned to shoot in 1945. Luckily for him, he never had to fire a gun in anger as the war ended before his basic training.

The Visitors Centre was a welcome sight and I enjoyed a rest in the snack bar surrounded by loads of men talking about birds. I’m not sure what they had spotted but I’m sure I saw a couple of Right Tits. I then followed the route into Purfleet, past the Heritage Centre and along the riverside to finish at the Royal Hotel. It was a short walk to the station and the train back to Rainham. The train journey took 5 minutes compared with 2 hours plus it had taken me to walk.

This was not the prettiest leg of the Loop, (signage was largely non-existent as well) but there is plenty of interest along the riverbank and the development of access is very pleasing. For me, it was both a trip down memory lane and the end of the easy part of the Loop through home territory. From now on it is all pastures new and very unfamiliar. In September the adventure really begins!


Time for leg 2hr 40m Distance 6 miles Time for trip 5hrs
Walk log
Fares this leg £4.20

Section 24 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and Time 5 miles 2 hours 40 minutes

Walking Conditions: Almost entirely level with one or two short gentle slopes; mostly hard surface, some on grass or gravel; no stiles; 3 kissing gates; 1.6 miles beside road.

N.B. The official guide does not show the riverside route from Coldharbour light.

23 Upminster Bridge Station to Rainham

1st September 2007

This section is the one that passes closest to home with the start and finish being just 20 minutes away by public transport. The weather was very warm (unusual for 2007) so I decided to leave early to avoid the heat. The route was very level following the Ingrebourne valley through Hornchurch Country park. Eventually you will be able to follow the Ingrebourne all the way to the Thames via Rainham creek and this will definitely improve this section, as the last part was all along roads.

Hornchurch Country Park was built on the site of RAF Hornchurch, a famous WW1 & WW2 fighter station. I used to visit regularly but sadly can’t anymore due to a height restriction. (Obviously I can get under the height barrier, but the van can’t.) There is quite an extensive area of countryside here with farmland and woodland on the other bank of the river.

After passing Tit Lake and Albyns farm house, a medieval manor house, it was a boring footslog to Rainham, where I got lost in Tescos looking for a toilet. Rainham has a cute little church, clock tower and Rainham Hall, a National Trust property I haven’t managed to visit. Not the most spectacular leg, but I’m certain this one will be the quickest to complete.

Time for leg 2hr 10m Distance 5 miles Time for trip 3hr 02m Walk log


Section 23 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and Time: 4 miles 2hours 30 minutes

Walking Conditions: Almost completely level, tarmac or firm gravel paths, no stiles. This section is suitable for the less mobile and is accessible for pushchairs.

22 Harold Wood to Upminster Bridge Station

1st March 2007

As the start and finish were very close to home I set off in the afternoon. The weather was sunny and bright but the wind was cool. Most of the section follows the river Ingrebourne and it is hoped that future development of footpaths along the valley will eliminate most of the road sections.

The first part of the walk takes you through Pages Wood, part of the Thames Chase development along gravel paths with the river to the left. The plantation includes oak, hornbeam and ash but looks more like a nursery than a wood. It’s unlikely I’ll be visiting for another walk as the car park had a height barrier.

Then, there followed a road section of a mile or so across the A127 and south into Upminster. There were a few views back towards Havering and I spotted the White House, about 4 miles north and quick glimpse of Canary Wharf.
At the bottom of River Drive, the walk suddenly turned rural again and also very muddy. It was time to put on the wellies.

Through a small wood, over a footbridge and stiles, past a school playing field and alongside a ploughed field, I trudged along enjoying the solitude and the very bright sunshine. Quite unexpectedly I came across a paddock of donkeys and goats, not the sort of thing you usually find in Upminster. The last half mile or so back to the tube was all urban, enlivened only by a glimpse of Upminster Windmill.

This walk seemed a bit tame after the rural delights of the last two sections. I’m sure it will improve when proposed Greenway is finally developed. However it was a lovely sunny day and there were worse ways of spending your 50th birthday.

Time for leg 1h 50m Distance 4 miles Time for trip 3hrs Walk log

Total Walking Time 8hr 05m Total Distance 14.5m Total time 14hr 05m

Fares this leg £6 Fares total £6

Section 22 Essentials
Section Map
Directions

Distance and Time 4.3 miles 2hours 40 minutes

Walking Conditions: almost completely level with one or two short gentle slopes; mostly footpaths, tracks and grass, often with rough surface; 2 stiles from Hall Lane to Wingletye Lane; the section from Harold Wood to Hall Lane is suitable for the less mobile and for pushchairs.