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| Kingston Bridge |
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| A Stag Party |
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| Shot Tower |
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| Hounslow Heath |
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| Donkey Wood |
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| Boats in Bushy Park |
Section 8 of the London Loop marks the start of the return journey for me and the last one south of the river Thames. The weather was absolutely glorious, with blue skies and sunshine that got warmer as the day wore on. The route took me from Ewell in Surrey to the historic market town of Kingston following the course of the Hogsmill River on its way to join the mighty river Thames. The source of the river is in Bourne Hall Park and for six miles it provides a green corridor for wildlife and humans, but not quite hiding the surrounding urban sprawl.
Bourne Hall looks a bit like a spaceship and must have been rather avante garde for Surrey when it was built in 1970. It hosts a library, local museum and possibly toilets but I arrived too early to explore. The lake is home to many species of bird, last time out I spotted a heron, but most of the locals were still roosting. There was plenty of birdsong all along the route which was pleasant. I think I spotted a pair of grey wagtails in the river.
The Hogsmill River was the inspiration for several painters and is particularly associated with Millais and his painting of the drowning of Ophelia. It would be pretty hard to drown there today as there was barely a trickle along the first part of the river. At one point walkers have to tackle a very low tunnel under a railway line, but I just laughed in the face of the height restriction, no worries for me. I wouldn’t call it a very picturesque river with more rubbish than water in some places, but it was very well used by the local dog walking community.
Several other walking routes follow the valley of the Hogsmill. The Hogsmill Valley Walk has been incorporated into the London Loop but officially starts at Kingston. There are plenty of information panels to enlighten you as you pass. The ThamesDown Link has been devised to link the Thames Path National Trail at Kingston with the North Downs National Trail at Box Hill and follows the Hogsmill Walk for several miles. At 15 miles this would be quite a tough day's walking especially if it finishes on top of Box Hill.
About half way along I had a sit down in the churchyard of St John the Baptist Church which I think was in Old Malden. Not long after this, the London Loop takes a very boring trail around the less attractive parts of Surbiton as the river is currently inaccessible. It was a very long way from the Good Life. Eventually the river and Loop meet up and make their way together through the back streets of Kingston, which is certainly the largest town I’ve passed through to date.
The historic parts of Kingston are quite impressive; there is the Chair of Majesty Coronation Stone where many a Saxon king was crowned, giving the town its name (possibly); there is the tiny Clattern Bridge, still in use after six hundred years or so; the impressive Guildhall buildings and the Market Square with a golden Queen Victoria, ruling the roost over the Tourist office. The Loop veers down a rather dingy alleyway to bring you out onto the banks of the Thames and follows the Thames Path to finish the leg at Kingston Bridge. I enjoyed a well-earned lunch in a riverside pub before catching the train home. I’ll have to wait another six months before crossing back to the right side of the river.
Section 7 isn’t very pretty or very green but it definitely saves the best until last. The first part of the walk is across Banstead Downs Golf Course. Luckily, there were few players around so there was little danger from low flying golf balls. After leaving the golf course, the next couple of miles were through the leafy streets of the borough of Sutton in the district of Cheam. The only thing of interest on this bit was discovering that Epsom and Ewell are twinned with Chantilly, which sort of makes sense.
Crossing back into Surrey and across the A24, eventually you reach Warren Farm where the whole nature of the walk changes. Warren Farm is owned by the Woodland Trust but is mainly open grassland and well used by the local populace. In the wooded section is a ghost road, built before the Second World War, when a housing development was planned. Well, Hitler put a stop to all that nonsense but the road to nowhere remains, slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Beyond the wood is Nonsuch Park, the site of Nonsuch Palace, favourite home of Henry VIII. Also within the park is Nonsuch Mansion, a Georgian pile said to resemble the old palace. Apparently it was once owned by Kevin Whateley’s great-great-great grandfather. The mansion wasn’t on the official loop route but possessed toilets and a café so I stopped for a lunch break. The café and gardens were heaving with children so I didn’t tarry too long. There was a wedding party at the Mansion so it wasn’t possible to have a closer look.
Back on the route proper, I wandered down a long avenue of chestnut trees looking out across the splendid parkland. London seemed a million miles away. Of the old palace nothing remains, concrete markers show the extent of the palace and a brick retaining wall delineates the Banqueting Hall. Apparently no expense was spared by King Henry on what became his favourite palace, and there was ‘none such’ as this in all the land, hence its name. It was eventually demolished by one of Charles II’s mistresses to pay off her gambling debts. Imagine Camilla flogging Marlborough House to pay of her bookies!
After following a rambling path through the woods I eventually arrived at the A24 which I crossed carefully as instructed. At this point I missed a sign, mainly because it wasn’t there and wandered about half a mile in the wrong direction before retracing my footsteps to Vicarage Lane. At the end of the lane is Ewell, which has a very rural feel about it. Interesting buildings abound, all with wall plaques provided by a local society; the church that only has a tower, Ewell Castle school and the village lock up.
Section 7 finishes in Bourne Hall Park which proved difficult to get into. The main archway was being renovated and was very definitely closed. The park wasn’t large but had a big pond with a little fountain and lots of very well fed ducks, and one huge heron. Bourne Hall is a local amenity centre and museum housed in modern circular building. I didn’t stop to look but headed off to Ewell West station, where I arrived at the same time as the train. I surprised myself by sprinting over the footbridge and actually caught it. 
Having finally reached the countryside after about a mile and a half, there wasn’t much to see as the bridleways were most enclosed. There were views south towards London from Woodcote smallholdings but it was too murky to make out anything. The small weather-boarded houses were built after the First World War for returning soldiers and farming still goes on. I encountered sheep for the first time on the Loop.
'Thoughtful' owners had put a sign advising walkers not to feed or approach horses as they kick and bite and to keep to the footpath. I’d rather they instruct the horse not to approach walkers. This horse galloped across the field at a fair old pace and then stalked me as I walked across (on the footpath). The next field was a lavender farm, much more pleasant, although there were no flowers yet. The owners had put an information board and picnic tables for passing walkers, which really is thoughtful.
Oaks Park was the halfway point so I stopped for a bit of refreshment at the café. This was where Lord Derby and Lord Bunbury had their famous coin toss to name a horse race at nearby Epsom. The house has long gone but its name lives on as the other Epsom Classic. If it had been a nicer day I might have been tempted to explore the park as there are some surviving bits of architecture and formal gardens but it was just too parky. I also needed to crack on in order to catch the hourly train from Banstead.
After leaving Oaks Park the Loop followed Freedown Lane, a long bridleway up and down yet another hill passing Highdown Prison. I heard muffled shouts as I passed by, so either the inmates were exercising or having a riot. From the state of the bridleway the lane is very popular with riders. The Loop then crosses Banstead Downs, home to Britain’s smallest butterfly, the small blue. The Downs is one of four areas that make up Banstead Commons. The last part of this leg went across Banstead Golf Course, mercifully free of golfers as you have to cross several fairways.
I reached Banstead Road with less than four minutes to catch the train and very dismayed to find the last hundred metres was uphill. As I was rushing up the hill an old codger was coming the other way and I could tell he wanted to have a chat. I feigned deafness and made it onto the platform just as the train was pulling in. I had the same good luck with connections on the way home and was enjoying a nice cup of tea at home by 3.30pm for one of my shortest days on Loop since crossing the Thames.
I set off on yet another fine, sunny September 1st to distant South London to complete the most strenuous section of the Loop so far, as it reaches its most southerly point in the North Downs. This very attractive stretch takes in four Commons and down and up three valleys across parts of Surrey and Croydon. I was also looking forward to the journey, using the recently opened London Overground line, which avoided using a London terminus and so hopefully reducing the journey time.
Just five minutes after leaving the bus, I arrived at Riddlesdown Common and was transported back the countryside. The Common is a large, open area with wildflower meadows and grazing sheep. The Loop runs across the common before turning steeply downhill past a disused quarry to follow an old Roman road to the bottom of the valley and then straight back up again to Kenley Common.
The climb to Kenley Common has the steepest gradient of any part of the Loop encountered so far. I paused on a bench to enjoy the view of Riddlesdown and the quarry before setting off up some steps. These steps were so steep I needed steps to get up the steps if you see what I mean.I emerged somewhat breathless at the top only to find more uphill walking into mature, shady woodland.
Next to the Common is Kenley Airfield, a former RAF fighter airfield dating back to WW1. It contains many buildings dating back to WW2 including the blast pens that protected the spitfires. It is still in use for gliders and I spotted on coming into land. I paused to reflect that seventy years ago it would not be as peaceful as it was today.
I stopped for lunch at the Wattenden Arms which was full of RAF memorabilia and then onto Coulsdon Common, past the miniature observatory owned Croydon Astronomical Society. All four Commons were purchased in the nineteenth century by the Corporation of London, who had the considerable foresight to preserve these areas for future generations. I, for one, am very grateful for this civic largesse. Probably the best time to visit this area is late spring as the meadows will be full of wildflowers and the woods carpeted with bluebells.
The last part of the walk through Happy Valley, Devilsden Wood and along Farthing Downs was definitely the best, three miles of road-free walking. Happy Valley Park was particularly beautiful, with great views of the North Downs and none whatsoever of Croydon. It was full of families, dog walker and joggers. I wasn’t so happy when I found I had walk down it and up the other side. Happy Valley marks the most southerly point of the London Loop.
Devilsden Wood is an ancient mixed woodland, full of bluebells in spring time. The path ran gently uphill and the shade was welcome. The Loop finally emerges through the trees onto Farthing Down, a long ridge with fine views back towards the City, Canary Wharf and Crystal Palace, about eight miles to north, but still in Croydon. After a brief stop to admire the view, it was just a gentle downhill stroll to the end of the walk at Coulsdon station.
The walk between Hamsey Green and Coulsdon is one of the finest parts of the Loop, with the minimum of road walking, a real country feel and saves its best views for last. Highly recommended!
In common with 2007 and 2008, March 1st was sunny, bright and quite warm where sheltered. This leg of the Loop took me south west from Bromley, through Croydon to the very borders of Surrey. My journey around London nearly came to end permanently on the Croydon Road in Hayes when I tripped up a kerb and fell into the road. I quickly got up and sat on a nearby wall, but I probably scared the driver of the oncoming car about 200 metres away, who was kind enough to slow down and check I was ok. Some sixth (common) sense told me not to walk along this bit of road when the cars were close or I'd been a goner. I ended up with a bruised bum and knee and a nasty fright.
This section of the route is very well-wooded which was a bit of a shame, as I would have prefered an open landscape to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It was very muddy underfoot and very hilly which made walking quite difficult at times, you end up with a gait like those cross-country skiers trying to stop your feet from slipping. Woods also don't make for good photos as everywhere looks the same. With the exception of one longish stretch of road, it was footpaths all the way. The Loop crossed the Greenwich Meridian in Coney Hall so passes into the western hemisphere until the very last leg in eight years time.
The first four miles were undulating, woodland paths through West Wickham Common, Spring Park, where Bromley ends and Croydon begins, Threehalfpenny Wood and Kennel Wood to the village of Upper Shirley, where I had a brief glimpse of the windmill. The Loop then goes very steeply uphill into the Addington Hills, the largest area of heathland left in London. At the top of the escarpment is the most fantastic view of London, which surely has to be the highlight of the walk so far. I knew it was going to be good as the OS marked it with a viewpoint symbol, and it would have taken my breath away, if I had any left from the climb up.
I could see the Millennium Dome and Canary Wharf over 10 miles and the little Essex hills where I started this walk four years ago. Central London was blocked out by the ridge of hills in south London, but the Gherkin,, Tower 42 and the GPO were visible. Out west I could see Wembley, Harrow-on-the Hill and the grey lumps of the Chilterns. Windsor Castle probably was visible with the aid of binoculars as it was a very clear day. I could make out most of the Capital Ring route I walked last autumn. It was a pretty amazing site and well worth a visit. The photo doesn't really do it justice.
After a little rest enjoying the view, I continued on over the Tramlink track to Heathfield Gardens, which probably look lovely in summer, up yet another bloody hill to Bramley Bank Nature Reserve, owned by the London Wildlife Trust. After a brief excursion off route down a muddy bank on my bum, I stopped for lunch on a sunny bench in a nice grassy ride, before yomping up yet another woody hill. The next half a mile was via a series of twittens through a housing estate to the gateway into Selsdon Wood, owned by the National Trust.
The final two miles of this leg run along the borders of Surrey and were very rural, crossing just one road. It went up and down yet another hill and was extremely boggy in parts. The combination of hills and mud were very tiring and I was graeteful to see the bus stop when I arrived at Hamsey Green. As if to make up for all my hard work, the walking gods granted me a very speedy journey home, making all my connections with very little waiting, to enjoy my birthday tea.
Section four of the Loop is a meandering trail across the borough of Bromley, linking country parks, old woods and commons, country estates, genuine countryside and some pretty villages. The farm shown here is right in the heart of the borough. Bromley is London's biggest, greenest borough, roughly the same size as Andorra and probably just as wealthy. It stretches from Crystal Palace south to Westerham Heights, at 245m/804ft the highest part of Greater London. There were quite a few climbs on this leg. The day started and ended in pleasant, warm sunshine with the odd inconvenient shower around lunchtime.
owever before I could start section 4 I had to finish off the bit of section 3 I avoided in my rush to catch the train. This added about a mile to the route, including a missed turn when I failed to spot a railway bridge. The Loop crosses three railway bridges and follows a series of gloomy alleyways (that I would not fancy at night) to official start at Jubilee Country Park, an area of wildflower meadows and ancient woodlands, extremely popular with dog walkers and cyclists.
On the way to Farnborough Village, the Loop passes through two ancient woods, Crofton Wood and Darrick Wood. Crofton Wood was quite dense and the guide posts are absolutely necessary to navigate your way through. The Loop goes through the churchyard of St Giles the Abbot, a pretty church with a small tower built from flint and red brick. Apparently, the “legendary” Gypsy Lee is buried in the churchyard. I mistook this for Gypsy Rose Lee and searched in vain for grave where everything was ‘coming up roses’. There were lots of horrible Victorian fallen angels.
A short amble down the hill from the church is High Elms County Park, the former home of Sir John Lubbock. Only the stables remain from the main house, but the gardens are extensive, including some very big redwoods (I don’t where the elms were). This was my lunch stop and I found the picnic area absolutely heaving with every nursery schoolchild in Orpington, the noise level was off the scale. I just unpacked the picnic when the heavens unloaded on me. Sometimes you just can’t win.
From High Elms, the loop passes through pleasant open countryside along the wonderful Bogey Lane with the odd light aircraft buzzing overhead on its way to Biggin Hill. One of the features of this walk were the weird road names; Bogey Lane, Tent Peg Lane, and Pole Cat Alley.
Holwood House, the former home of Sir William Pitt the younger, is visible on the top of a hill. It is now owned by property developers and was securely locked away from prying eyes. Holwood House is famous for the meeting between Pitt and William Wilberforce, when Wilberforce decided to oppose slavery in Parliament. The meeting took place under an oak tree, a victim of the 1987 hurricane. There is a memorial seat, also securely locked away. There is a great view over the Vale of Keston from the ordinary seat.
This leg was significant for me as it was the first time I met other Loopers. I stopped for a chat with them at the Wilberforce Oak, Several members of the group had made more than one circuit.
The only water feature on this leg is Caesar’s well, the source of the river Ravensbourne which flows into the Thames in Wandsworth. It feeds Keston Ponds, located either side of Fishponds Roads. I stopped for an ice cream, another first for the Loop. The final part of the day took me through Keston, once the home of Margaret Thatcher and finished at West Wickham Common. This common is one of the many areas purchased by the Corporation of London in the nineteenth century, to preserve the countryside for people like me.
